( TL19E00J34356541902FCAT00 )

Power Mirrors (Door Multiplex Control Unit) Input Test

1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the power window master switch.

1. Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).

1. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
   - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
   - If the terminals look OK, go to Step 4 .

1. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the power window master switch.
   NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit.

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---

   32

   BLK

   Under all conditions

   Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.

   - Poor ground (G501)
   - An open in the wire

   37

   BLK

   Under all conditions

   Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.

   - Poor ground (G502)
   - An open in the wire

   14

   LT GRN

   Ignition switch ON (II)

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire

   5 *1

   BLU

   Ignition switch ON (II), retractable mirror switch pressed

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   9

   WHT[PUR]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch LEFT or DOWN is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   10

   RED[YEL]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch RIGHT is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   11

   GRY[LT BLU]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch UP is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   1 *2

   ORN

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 1 terminals with a jumper wire

   Check the left [right] power mirror defogger operation: The left [right] power mirror defogger should work (the inside lower edge becomes warm).

   - Faulty left [right] power mirror defogger
   - Poor ground (G503)
   - An open in the wire

   7 *1

   LT BLU

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 7 [or No. 8] terminals and No. 8 [or No. 7] and No. 32 terminals with jumper wires

   Check the retract actuator operation: The left [right] mirror should extend (or retract).
   NOTE: if the mirror stops moving, disconnect battery power immediately.

   - Faulty left [right] power mirror
   - An open in the wire

   8 *1 | LT GRN

   26

   PNK

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 26 terminals with a jumper wire

   Check the power mirror switch light operation: The power mirror switch light should come on.

   - Faulty LED
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - Poor ground (G501)
   - An open in the wire

   [ ]: | RHD model

   *1: | With retractable mirror
   *2: | With mirror defogger

1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the power window master switch.

1. Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).

1. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
   - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
   - If the terminals look OK, go to Step 4 .

1. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the power window master switch.
   NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit.

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---

   32

   BLK

   Under all conditions

   Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.

   - Poor ground (G501)
   - An open in the wire

   37

   BLK

   Under all conditions

   Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.

   - Poor ground (G502)
   - An open in the wire

   14

   LT GRN

   Ignition switch ON (II)

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire

   5 *1

   BLU

   Ignition switch ON (II), retractable mirror switch pressed

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   9

   WHT[PUR]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch LEFT or DOWN is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   10

   RED[YEL]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch RIGHT is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   11

   GRY[LT BLU]

   Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT [LEFT] mirror position

   Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch UP is pressed.

   - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - An open in the wire

   1 *2

   ORN

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 1 terminals with a jumper wire

   Check the left [right] power mirror defogger operation: The left [right] power mirror defogger should work (the inside lower edge becomes warm).

   - Faulty left [right] power mirror defogger
   - Poor ground (G503)
   - An open in the wire

   7 *1

   LT BLU

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 7 [or No. 8] terminals and No. 8 [or No. 7] and No. 32 terminals with jumper wires

   Check the retract actuator operation: The left [right] mirror should extend (or retract).
   NOTE: if the mirror stops moving, disconnect battery power immediately.

   - Faulty left [right] power mirror
   - An open in the wire

   8 *1 | LT GRN

   26

   PNK

   Ignition switch ON (II), connect No. 14 and No. 26 terminals with a jumper wire

   Check the power mirror switch light operation: The power mirror switch light should come on.

   - Faulty LED
   - Faulty power mirror switch
   - Poor ground (G501)
   - An open in the wire

   [ ]: | RHD model

   *1: | With retractable mirror
   *2: | With mirror defogger