( TL19E30A46500000000FAAT00 )

Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:

- Air temperature must be within 15−38 °C (59−100 °F) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

1. Hook up the this equipment:
   - Ammeter, 0−400 A
   - Voltmeter, 0−20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)

1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC).

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

1. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.

1. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS STOP on the HDS.

1. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N (A/T model) or neutral (M/T model), turn the ignition switch to START (III).

Does the starter crank the engine normally?

YES | - | The starting system is OK. Go to Step 13 .
NO | - | Go to Step 7 .

1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

1. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.

Does the starter crank the engine normally?

YES | - | Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to Step 13 .

NO

-

Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:

- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to Step 9 .
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to Step 11 .
- If the starter will not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:■

- | Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- | Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch

1. Make sure the shift lever is in P or N (A/T model) or neutral (M/T model), then disconnect the starter subharness 1P connector (A) from the left engine compartment wire harness 1P connector (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter subharness 1P connector.

Does the starter crank the engine?

YES | - | Go to Step 10 .
NO | - | Check the BLK/WHT wire between the starter subharness 1P connector and the starter. If the wire is OK, remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary. ■

1. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:■
   - The YEL wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch.
   - The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the left engine compartment wire harness 1P connector.
   - The ignition switch.
   - The transmission range switch (A/T model) and connector.
   - The starter cut relay (A/T model).

Does these items OK?

YES | - | Go to Step 12 .
NO | - | Repair or replace it, then go to Step 13 .

1. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.

Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?

YES | - | Go to Step 12 .

NO

-

Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:■

- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted the armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

1. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.

1. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP on the HDS.